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Step 1: Removing the bark and sanding the timber
The first step is the thorough elimination of any last bark, e.G. With a chisel. Although the bark appears very pleasant, it does not form an excellent bonding base for the epoxy resin. Then you have to paintings the edges again by using hand with sandpaper, in order that timber and resin can later integrate optimally.
Now sand the large surfaces of the timber easily. An eccentric sander is particularly appropriate for this. You should begin with 80 grit and then paintings your manner up to 220 grit. After every grit size the dirt ought to be eliminated from the boards. The aspects are first-rate finished by way of hand with sandpaper.
Finally, the wooden need to be wiped clean extremely thoroughly from all dust residues. A vacuum cleaner is an first rate tool for this. Then wipe once more with a microfibre fabric to get rid of the final first-class sanding dust.
Step 2: Fill in bumps and cracks and seal the timber
Now all viable unevenness, cracks and porous regions in the wooden ought to be levelled. These are virtually full of crystal clean, unpigmented epoxy resin. If you need to even out any unevenness in unfavourably placed areas at the rims, you could seal the rims earlier with a completely strong adhesive tape. This will prevent the resin from jogging over the rims afterwards.
After the filled up resin has dried, the entire wooden is sealed. Use a crystal-clear resin as you will for filling the cracks. This is generously disbursed over the whole wooden surface. This sealing prevents later outgassing of the timber. It is better to invest a little extra money in an excellent brush that doesn’t hair. Because once hairs have been disbursed, it is very hard to dispose of them from the resin once more. The sealant have to then dry thoroughly. You have to permit 5 hours for this in any case. The best temperature for drying is eighteen° to 24° C.
After curing you have to barely roughen the internal edges, on the way to later come into touch with the solid resin, by way of hand with sandpaper. This will create the appropriate base for the resin to bond with the edges.
Step 3: Build a mould / formwork for the desk top
Next, a mildew is built inside the favored period and size of the table. Simple MDF boards are used for this. The complete thing sounds greater complex than it sincerely is. However, it has to be measured and labored out very precisely and thoroughly. MDF boards with a thickness of sixteen mm, each for the underside and the sides, have demonstrated to be very suitable for the manufacturing of the mildew.
The facet panels should protrude the actual table top by way of approx. 15 mm. There are possibilities for joining the underside with the facet panels: either the individual parts may be screwed together or joined together with hot glue.
Step 4: Inserting the wooden into the mold
Make certain that the paintings floor on which the mould rests is sincerely one hundred% within the balance. Otherwise the resin could come to be skewed after filling and in all likelihood leak. Once this has been ensured, the wood is now located in the mould. To do this, the wood is driven into the location that it need to have when the desk is completed after which fixed with numerous parallel clamps. If you’re making plans a slightly smaller version, the wooden can instead be constant with heavy items along with stones. However, you ought to constantly undergo in thoughts that any item used to restoration the timber could come into contact with the resin.
In order to prevent the resin from later being present at the entire table and no longer just in the gutter furnished for it, it is really useful to attract a type of barrier of sanitary silicone alongside the inner edges at a distance of 1 to two cm.
Step 5: Mix epoxy resin
Calculate the proper amound of epoxy resin for your epoxy resin river desk. This can be a touch bit complex. For this motive, we’ve created an epoxy resin calculator to help you out: